OLFACTORY EDUCATION IN SCHOOLS

There is a clear parallel between music and perfumery, between olfactory and musical melodies, and we shall use this likeness in order to understand better the “why” and the “how” of olfactory education.

Just like music, perfumery is an art and even a major art, being entirely dedicated to one of our senses of perception, the sense of smell.Why is perfumery not taught at school just like music or drawing?Is perchance our sense of smell a minor sense of little importance?Do we perhaps love perfumes less than other civilizations?

School programs offer to all the basis of musical education, teaching the seven notes of our musical scale.

Olfactory education is no less important and to be able to name the scents of lavender and rose is no less important than to be able to name the blue and the red of the color spectrum.

The program that we deisigned is very simple and can be reassumed in one phrase: “how to become a perfumer in 4 moves”.

1.) The Ability to Name Odors: In fact the basis of olfactory education is to be able to name the odors by their names, which is not as easy as it seems. Our primordial sense of smell situated in our “reptilian brain” has little connection with the more evolved centers of language in our brain.

It is really surprising how often people, while smelling the absolute of coffee or the essence of lemon, smile over the bottle, recognizing only the happy memories associated with these familiar smells, without being able to give their names.

The basis and the first step of olfactory education consists in being able to name the scents that surround us. With a special diffuser, we send a sweet perfumed wind to the students and teach them to recognize the names of simple smells like lavender, pine, lemon ecc…

2.) Distinguishing the Components of a Perfume: The second step is to be able to distinguish the different components of a culinary creation or of the essences that compose simple blends such as orange cinnamon, rose lavender hay, ecc…For this course we use the perfumed wind organ, which allows us to combine 10 different essences in all possible combinations.
3.) Scent and Emotion Experiential Exercise: The third step of olfactory education is to develop the capacity to “listen to the soul” while smelling a fragrance, and to become aware of the emotions it produces and of the memories it awakens. The exercise of describing them by words sums up the method, because by wording one conceptualizes, and by conceptualizing one intellectually appropriates the experiences. For this course we use the diffuser “Cube” and familiar essences (lemon, mandarin, clove…) as well as totally new smells from other countries (vetyver, ylang ylang, patchouli…) In this course one learns the basis of the very special language of perfumers, which permits the description of fragrances just as landscapes or scenes are described. If you never heard the worlds “round” or “fresh” or “deep” while smelling such characteristic fragrances, how could you ever describe a perfume or any odor.

The didactical path of these first three steps of olfactory education is directly inspired from the Japanese Kodo, “the way of scent”, the Zen of olfaction.

4.) Team Composition of a Perfume: In the fourth step the students are given a simple and practical perfumer’s kit for children, and they are teamed by two. Everyone will make a perfume for his companion, with the same method that we use in our perfumery courses. At the end of this course every student will keep the bottle of his perfume.
A civilization produces musicians and musical culture only after its sons and daughters have received a musical education in their childhood.

Today, while the scents of nature essential to our psychological equilibrium are disappearing from our modern environment, chemical perfumes are omnipresent in our daily life, ice creams, soaps, cosmetics etc. This has created a confusion in the later generations because their olfactory models of reference are those that industrial marketing have provided for their consumption, the cheapest petrochemical mass products. Only an olfactory education can provide them with the knowledge necessary to apply criterions to the smells that surround them in order to judge their quality or to appreciate fully their beauty.

HUMAN SWEAT, THE NEW FRONTIER OF PERFUMERY


Civet easily becomes a pet, but keep your nose away from its behind part

Whoever smelled pure Civet for the first time has wondered how such an odor could enter into a perfume bottle. My first impression was the smell of rotten tooth.
It takes some training to be able to understand Civet perfume, one has to overcome the social olfactory programming that make us classify straight away this odor among stenches.

An infinitesimal dose of Civet can double the longevity of short lived perfumes, and although being in amount so little as to be subliminal, it also add to fragrances a different olfactory dimension, the animal one, and our instinct recognizes it immediately.
This is the reason why the public often prefers the scents that contains civet or other perfumery pheromones over scents who do not.

Human sweat can be a very fascinating smell to a perfumer. A professional  perfumer must approach smells with an unprejudiced nose, or must at least be able to recognize the origin of his liking or not certain smells, and thus be able to evaluate them with an objectivity not given to the general public.
Moreover, a perfumer is always very attentive to the reactions of people to smells, because his aim is to build scents that people will like (and buy).

Human sweat tells what a person eats, his condition of health and also about his sexual life. Most of these things we perceive with our animal instinct and they are not intellectualized, but our behavior towards a person is very much conditioned by these information.

I once red the post of a pervert perfumer specialized into making aphrodisiac perfumes, where he was contemplating using his own sweat in a fragrance. I hope for his customers that he did not do it in one of the fragrances that he sells, but I invite every one of you to do this revolutionary perfume experience  for himself in a very simple way.

My life with natural fragrances as a traveller in some of the hottest uncivilized spots of the earth, without hotels or much water had forced me to resolve the armpit smell problem with what I had ready at hand, that is my natural essences and perfumes.
The result is astonishing, much better than any deodorant and than any perfume as well.

Armpit smell disappears as such and blends into the perfume which becomes much more rich and persistent. The essential oils that compose the perfume have an antiseptic effect that cuts drastically the bacterial fauna which is responsible for the typical armpit scent (see inquest into human pheromones).

You can see that people react very positively to such a perfume, specially the opposite sex.

You have both a deodorant product and a personal afrodisiac perfume.

This is probably the best sustainable alternative to animal scents in perfumery, and a much nicer way to experiment a “human pheromone perfume” that the one thought by the pervert perfumer.

Rush to any natural perfumer and try for yourself  your owwn customised human pheromone fragrance. I hope that you will write me your feed backs, they are most welcome.

Comments:

By Valeria

I’m an aromatherapist and a natural perfume maker. I feel unconfortable to say that I am a perfumist ’cause I’m talking to real ones. I got this experience since last year when I had a kind of inflamation in my left armpit. In view of this fact, I could not use an antibacterial powder that I use since I was a teenager. I went to the doctor who said that I shouldn’t use anything in there. Lucky me! I had the tools “staring at me” and of course, time had come to make it work on my behalf. I made a perfume with tea tree (’cause of its antibacterial function) + lavender + petit grain with a litlle of alcool and clean water and started to use it under my armpit as deodorant. It was awesome! From that moment on I started selling much more perfume than I used to in view of the fact that people reacted in an unexpected way. The same people who liked my perfumes started to love it! And people who didn’t care about them (at least they seemed to) started to pay attention on them, commenting and better than that, buying! Another thing that I had noticed and that you said confirms my theory that perfumes are much better before you take a shower than after this. The scent is stronger and more permanent. Loved to “hear” it. Science and intuition go together! Thanks for it!
Valéria
 
By Heather
What a great post on how to take advantage of your own sweat pheromones to enhance and personalize a natural perfume. Ever since I had to write a paper on this topic during my aromatherapy certification, I’ve been trying to figure out how to leverage that information in natural perfumery and here is the answer. I also appreciated your linked-to post on human pheromones.

It’s fascinating to me that the nasal cavity is the only place in the body where the environment comes into direct contact with the central nervous system. While other sensory info comes in through the thalamus, the sense of smell comes directly to the brian via the olfactory epithelium – one of the oldest parts of the brain. Before we consciously process a smell, our bodies have already reacted to it. I appreciated your post on human pheromones because there’s not enough reference in natural perfumery to that 2007 study published in the Journal of Neuroscience which identified the chemical in male sweat – androstadienone – that when smelled alters hormone levels in women. This is, after all, a natural process. And while the mainstream perfume industry appears to be trying to capitalize on this chemical reaction via synthesis of pseudo-androstadienone, your post provides a really straightforward and imaginative path for the natural perfume industry to do even better, and without millions of dollars in R&D. 8-)

Don’t get me wrong, I’m still waiting with much interest for scientists to figure out the whys of the olfactory process – especially where pheromones are concerned – so we can understand how to better leverage chemical constituents in our essential oils. But in the end it seems like the role of natural scents is something we as mammals have always understood at the cellular level. Our ancestors had far more familiarity (and less discomfort) with the relationship between bodily odors and bodily response. Mandy Aftel in her book Essence and Alchemy points out that the use of body odor as an aphrodisiac is recorded in the ancient literature of nearly all languages. Clothing scented with a suitor’s perspiration was “smuggled into the proximity of the desired sexual partner, and sweat also played an important role in the preparation of elixirs… During Shakespeare’s time, a woman in love would place a peeled apple in her armpit to saturate it with her scent and then present it to her beloved as a token of her desire.”

Again, thanks for the great post!
Heather

TINCTURING A 150 MILLION YEARS OLD AROMATIC RAW MATERIAL

FOSSIL AMBER

LET US TINCTURE IT

My amber suitcase, all of it is Baltic amber

We shall tincture about 5 grams of fossil Amber of Baltic origin. The age of baltic amber is estimated at 150 million years.
Can a perfume last over such a lapse of time?
In some way it definitely does, whoever worked amber to poslish it and shape it as I did for some time, knows the typical smell, similar to rubbery lemony frankincense.
A very delicate smell that transforms working this matter in a pleasurable olfactory experience.
Moreover amber is called bernstein in German, “burning stone”, because it has been used as incense in Europe particularly during epidemies and for vibrational therapies.
The smell is there. Can it pass into the alcohol in order to be used as a perfume?


5.4 grams of Amber

The first step is to pulverize the amber, in this way we shall facilitate the tincturing. We can use the same technique that I use to pulverize Hyraceum stone, an other fossil material (the oldest is only 10000 years old) that can be tinctured and makes a very strong perfume.


We got 4,2 grams of amber powder

 We add about 40 grams of alcohol, this vill ba a 10% tincture

2 month later… 

The tincture was already smelly after a few days, but the smell was extremely fleeting.

 

After 2 month the decanted tincture has taken a yellow colour, showing definitely that something has dissolved in it, in fact when you dip a glass bit into the tincture and let the alcohol evaporates, a white layer remains on it but it has a short lived smell.

However the smaller pieces are still brittle and they did not soften while staying so long into alcohol, this may indicate that a more finely powdered amber would have given a stronger colour and a stronger smell.

In 2 month the smell has not changed in nature, only in intensity and somewhat in persistence. It is camphorous limony and incensy, but it does not really smell like Frankincense, not being such a resinous odour. My Amber tincture has the true and exact smell of Baltic Amber.

I do not know if my liking it is due my memories of working this material years ago, who became fragrant every time I worked it with sand paper and drill bits in order to make necklaces, pendents and bracelets.

The smell very short lived, only five to ten minutes on the skin. I doubt that more time in infusion will give it more persistence.

For a perfumer, the tincture does not look interesting from an olfactory point of view, the smell is neither strong nor persistent enough, but in a conceptual sense, the stage in which natural perfumes are ideas still to be realized with true archetypes, this may be a very interesting ingredient, even though it would not be smelled, because natural perfumes are made of vibrations and there is more than just smell in a natural fragrance.

AbdesSalaam Attar
Composer Perfumer

Hyraceum, tincturing a 10 000 years old pheromone

HYRACEUM

Procavia Capensis

Special Scents - Hyraceum

 
 

The tincture is obtained by infusing the powdered raw material into pure organic non denaturated alcohol 96°. Hyraxes seem to be quite average little critters, resembling an over-grown guinea-pig and famous almost solely for being the closest living relative to elephants.

They are indeed strange animals. A hyrax’s brain is like an elephant’s, while its stomach is like a horse’s. The skeleton, however, is akin to a rhinoceros’s. The hind feet are entirely different from these animals, more like a tapir’s. Peeking into the mouth of a hyrax, you may recognize similar upper incisors from rodents’ teeth, upper cheek teeth from rhino’s and the lower cheek teeth like a hippo’s. They even have two teeth in their upper jaw that resemble elephant tusks. The overall anatomy of a hyrax, however, is like an elephant’s or horse’s. Hyraceum was used by men long before perfumers did it.

This substance has been a traditional remedy used in Africa and middle east for thousands of years. It is not strange that other animal scents such as Civet, Muskdeer Castoreum and Ambergris belong to all traditional pharmacopeias with the same indications; epilepsy, convulsions and feminine hormonal disorders.

All these animal odoriferous substances are in fact pheromones. Although all animals largely use pheromones in the reproducing process, very few of them, such as Civet, Muskdeer and Castoreum possess a specific gland that produces them in quantity to be expelled in a pure form from their body. Most animals, including humans, expel their pheromones together with sweat, urine and feces.

Hyraceum is formed from the urine of a Hyrax or Dassie. The urine is not as fluid as that of other mammals but is rather passed as a jelly like substance. Hyraxes will always use the same place, mostly caves or afranctuosities to urinate and a different place to defecate. This product is mostly very old and a Hyrax colony would build up a large mound of Hyraceum only over thousands of years.

Hyraceum is very dense and hard as stone. The jelly urine first dries up then it compacted by the animals and then it is fossilized by time.

It is no wonder that Hyraceum is considered in South Africa a remedy for kidney and bladder diseases and disfunctions. All mammals expel their pheromones through urines and the leathery smell of Hyraceum shows that it contains a lot of these.

Hyraxes choose a place nearby their homes and it is probable that this odoriferous mass has a social pheromonal function (for example regiulating the sexual maturity of the individuals), as well as marking the territory of the colony.

Perfumery Hyraceum is fossilized, and it is in fact extremely dry, heavy and hard like a stone, the product can date from the mid Holocene period and be as old as 10 000 years as researchers have ascertained (Carr et al., 2010).

The tincture is obtained by infusing the powdered raw material into pure alcohol for a few weeks. The smell is akin to Castoreum but has a distinct urinary note that can be found only in goat hair tincture among perfumery materials.

Hyraceum definitely has an affinity with human beings, as its medical use shows. Its smell as well is not at all disgusting as one may think, but it could be described as “very interesting”, even to unprepared people who are not at all perfumers. Duchaufourd commented it as “magnifique et fascinant”.

In fact we are genetically conditioned to react to this type of smells, particularly women who by their nature of mothers have to do “biologically” with children’s urine. Pheromones from different species are not that much different, even those of insects and mammals.

This is why we human can be influenced by such substances, and aromatic Hyraceum can certainly participate in the construction of the tri-dimentional perfume

Comments on Hyraceum from the blog of Denyse “Grain de Musk

SMELL IT!
profumo produces Hyraceum tincture
For perfumers Hyraceum absolute

 

NATURAL ISOLATES, THE BRAVE STAND OF THE NATURAL PERFUMERS GUILD

With a press release, the Natural Perfumers Guild (NPG) has defined what is considered a natural isolate by its standards, to which all perfumers endorsed by the guild will have to abide.

In the same go, NPG has defined what Guild perfumers should NOT consider “really natural” although they are “legally natural” according to international standards.

In brief, natural isolates are those single molecules extracted from essential oils and natural raw materials existing in Nature, while single molecules extracted from Bio-Tech made material are NOT natural.

I fully endorse the definitions of the NPG and we shall refer to them as a standard definition of natural isolates in our ECLIP list of perfume ingredients.

This is a more courageous stand than it appears at first sight, because it openly clashes with the interests of the industry for which bio tech molecules are a new gold mine.

The big players of the perfume industry get rich on research that brings to light new aromas, that is, new molecules, for which they have a patent and are the unique authorized manufacturers.

The patent on aromatic molecules have created a state of monopoly for many aromatics. This monopoly gives complete control of the market to a single company and these patents are at the origin of the wealth and power of the majors.

With the advent of  bio technologies a door is opened to new incredible possibilities, because not only new molecules can now be synthesized and patented, but also new processes to obtain existing molecules with existing micro-organisms and also, in some cases, new micro-organisms genetically modified that are at the core of the molecules fabrication, can be patented.

I was stunned during the presentations of such molecules that their smell and olfactory comportment was so typical of the chemical synthetic products but they were presented to perfumers as natural, organic and certified Ecocert.

When I asked the producers, as one of their long time customer, what was the material of origin of the essence, they just replied to me that this information was reserved because it was protected by a patent.
Were I to ask if the micro organisms used in the process were GMO, what do you think would have been their answer?
They are just bound to declare that the molecules have a bio-tech origin. That’s all.
This is what I cannot accept for my customers, even in the name of freedom of creativity and of Art (to me this is just the new ego-trip of the new wave indie perfumers), I cannot accept the secrecy that surrounds these materials, using them on blind trust in the corporations, while our whole recent history from Bhopal to Lehman has proved again and again that one cannot trust the corporations when their interest conflicts with the one of mankind.

Now, the stand of the NPG will not please the industry, and certainly not its “cultural and educational arm”, the Fragrance Foundation, the organization that gives the FIFI awards all around the world.
I believe that the chances of NPG perfumers to win a FIFI are now very slim.  As are the chances of any blogger who will support the stand of NPG (Yes, the FF has made a FIFI also for bloggers to make sure they do not deviate from their “philosophy”).

I do not know what is behind a philosophy that certifies “organic” a molecule that does not exist in nature, and I do not know what big interests are behind this insistence to call the bio-tech molecules “natural”.

Maybe someone who reads this can inform us. Economic strategies of corporations fly far over my head, and I can hardly manage a month by month economy in the rough seas of the crisis.
I am a small fishing boat on the ocean, or rather a frail Kayak, corporations are supertankers. Let us hope that at the command there is not a Captain Schettino.

Natural perfumers Worldwide

COURS GRATUIT AROMATHERAPIE DE PREMIER SECOURS

 

Enfin traduit en Français ce cours fondamental qui synthétise 25 ans d’expérience avec l’utilisation quotidienne des huiles essentielles que j’utilise en tant que parfumeur naturel.
Je l’ai appelé “cours d’aromathérapie de premier secours” parceque cette pratique de l’aromathérapie que je propose montre ses résultats immédiatement, souvent en quelques minutes.

This aromatherapy course synthesises 25 years of experiences in the daily use of the essential oils I have been using as a perfumer. I call it “first aid aromatherapy” because this is a way of using the oils that shows immediate results.

Le cours est gratuit, il est la version écrite de mon cours d’aromathérapie que je tient en Italie téléchargez le ici

Ce cours est conçu de façon à permettre à quiconque de se soigner et de soigner sa famille grâce à seulement quelques huiles essentielles capables de soigner la plupart des troubles communs, permettant ainsi de se garder à distance des médecins, des médicaments et des hôpitaux. En un mot, de se garder des ennuis.

Il s’adresse aussi aux personnes qui soignent grâce à des techniques thérapeutiques variées, afin de leur donner de plus amples moyens de soulager leurs patients, et aux médecins qui cherchent une alternative aux médicaments de l’industrie pharmaceutique.

Les excellents résultats que peut produire l’aromathérapie sont illustrés, à titre d’exemple, sur ce blog où j’ai décrit quelques unes de mes expériences à Tombouctou.

AbdesSalaam Attar

Perfumer composer

WHAT IS THE OUD CARAVAN PROJECT?

An interview on Suzanne’s perfume journal to explain the Oud Caravan project

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