Human sweat and perfumery pheromones

Civet easily becomes a pet, but keep your nose away from its behind part

Whoever smelled pure Civet for the first time has wondered how such an odor could enter into a perfume bottle. My first impression was the smell of rotten tooth.
It takes some training to be able to understand Civet perfume, one has to overcome the social olfactory programming that make us classify straight away this odor among stenches.

An infinitesimal dose of Civet can double the longevity of short lived perfumes, and although being in amount so little as to be subliminal, it also add to fragrances a different olfactory dimension, the animal one, and our instinct recognizes it immediately.
This is the reason why the public often prefers the scents that contains civet or other perfumery pheromones over scents who do not.

Human sweat can be a very fascinating smell to a perfumer. A professional  perfumer must approach smells with an unprejudiced nose, or must at least be able to recognize the origin of his liking or not certain smells, and thus be able to evaluate them with an objectivity not given to the general public.
Moreover, a perfumer is always very attentive to the reactions of people to smells, because his aim is to build scents that people will like (and buy).

Human sweat tells what a person eats, his condition of health and also about his sexual life. Most of these things we perceive with our animal instinct and they are not intellectualized, but our behavior towards a person is very much conditioned by these information.

I once red the post of a pervert perfumer specialized into making aphrodisiac perfumes, where he was contemplating using his own sweat in a fragrance. I hope for his customers that he did not do it in one of the fragrances that he sells, but I invite every one of you to do this revolutionary perfume experience  for himself in a very simple way.

My life with natural fragrances as a traveller in some of the hottest uncivilized spots of the earth, without hotels or much water had forced me to resolve the armpit smell problem with what I had ready at hand, that is my natural essences and perfumes.
The result is astonishing, much better than any deodorant and than any perfume as well.

Armpit smell disappears as such and blends into the perfume which becomes much more rich and persistent. The essential oils that compose the perfume have an antiseptic effect that cuts drastically the bacterial fauna which is responsible for the typical armpit scent (see inquest into human pheromones).

You can see that people react very positively to such a perfume, specially the opposite sex.

You have both a deodorant product and a personal afrodisiac perfume.

This is probably the best sustainable alternative to animal scents in perfumery, and a much nicer way to experiment a “human pheromone perfume” that the one thought by the pervert perfumer.

Rush to any natural perfumer and try for yourself  your owwn customised human pheromone fragrance. I hope that you will write me your feed backs, they are most welcome.

Comments:

By Valeria

I’m an aromatherapist and a natural perfume maker. I feel unconfortable to say that I am a perfumist ’cause I’m talking to real ones. I got this experience since last year when I had a kind of inflamation in my left armpit. In view of this fact, I could not use an antibacterial powder that I use since I was a teenager. I went to the doctor who said that I shouldn’t use anything in there. Lucky me! I had the tools “staring at me” and of course, time had come to make it work on my behalf. I made a perfume with tea tree (’cause of its antibacterial function) + lavender + petit grain with a litlle of alcool and clean water and started to use it under my armpit as deodorant. It was awesome! From that moment on I started selling much more perfume than I used to in view of the fact that people reacted in an unexpected way. The same people who liked my perfumes started to love it! And people who didn’t care about them (at least they seemed to) started to pay attention on them, commenting and better than that, buying! Another thing that I had noticed and that you said confirms my theory that perfumes are much better before you take a shower than after this. The scent is stronger and more permanent. Loved to “hear” it. Science and intuition go together! Thanks for it!
Valéria
en → it
olfattivo
aggettivo: olfattivo

New essences from Australia

New essential oils are just arriving to me from Australia, Eco Sandalwood and Fire Tree.

Australian Sandalwood is precious to me as a substitute to Mysore Sandalwood. Not only a minor quantity is enough to have the top and heart note of Sandalwood in a fragrance, but it costs also a lot less than the Mysore.
It does not have the clean and very special drydown of the Mysore, but this is not very important because the delicate smell of the Mysore sandalwood dry down would be lost in most of the fragrances a perfumer can make, except if he were to use synthetic Santalol in heavy dose.
Australian Sandalwood is farmed, just like the Mysore, it’s availability is anyway limited but one may always buy a few hundred kilos if need be, while this would be very difficult with the Mysore. This is definitly an advantage for a natural perfumer who wants to be ready for big opportunities.
Australian Sandalwood contains more Farnesol than the Mysore, and this molecule can be allergenic, but this problem could appear only if it is used pure on his own.
The Eco Sandalwood does not come from cultivations but is obtained from dead branches of wild trees that are collected by the bushmen.
This Sandalwood essence has a more powerful and longer lasting fragrance, with a Sandalwood note even clearer than the conventional one.
The essence of Sandalwood, like those of many aromatic trees, becomes better with age. Apparently, the essence trapped in the old dead branches has done just that. We can consider then the Australian Eco Sandalwood as the vintage Australian Sandalwood

The Fire tree (Xanthorrhoea preissil) is an aromatic wood so loaded with essential oil that the bushmen use it as matches to light their fires. I have seen the same being done in Afghanistan, where fires are lighted with the oily perfumed Himalayan cedar wood. It burns with a black smoke as if it was soaked in gasoil.

The Fire tree has been defined by Luca Turin as “the most interesting smell of the last years”. It has a very sweet and strong fruity head smell, like apricot and myrtle. This notes goes on unchanged in the heart of the fragrance and it settles down after a day in a delicate and persistent woody fruity bottom smell.
It is indeed an interesting odor and it encounters a nearly universal positive appreciation. I am curious to present it to present it to the students at the next course, just to see how unprejudiced persons work with it.

Comments

By: Andrew
Hello AbdesSalaam Attar,
I found your blog a few weeks ago now and have been reading your articles, they are very informative! I was wondering if I could ask of your help? I am a 21 year old university student studying music in Australia. I have always been interested in cologne and perfume, and about 8 months ago I started going out with my current girlfriend Jennifer, whom I have had feelings for for years. She loves cologne, and as a gesture of my affection for her, I have started trying to make her her own unique scent. I have been researching for about 2 months now, and buying some essential oils here and there. I am starting to develop something that is..well…its ok, but I want to create something trully amazing…and something that will suit her. I understand you run a business from this so please dont think I am trying to obtain your knowledge for free or anything, more just if you can offer any words of advice at all? With no real knowledge of perfumery at all other than titbits of information on each essential oil that I can glean from the internet, it really is rather difficult. To make matters worse, Im keeping it a suprise, so I cant really ask her what oils she likes, other than trying to accidentally have them on me and see if she reacts positively to them (Im still amazed she believed the smell of clary sage was from me cooking eariler that day when I tried to judge if she would like it!)
This email is a bit disjointed sorry, Im actually in a bit of a rush to go into uni, I thought I shoudl send this now though or I will keep procrastinating and never get around to it. Thankyou for any advice you can offer at all 🙂

Sincerely,
Andrew Galloway

By: AbdesSalaam Attar

Ciao Andrew,
you can get some recipes of traditional colognes from the book of Dussauce:
http://www.profumo.it/internet-documents/books/index_books.htm

Perfumer’s organ

The mysterious and mythic instrument of the perfumer, how to build it, explained step by step and illustrated with pictures.Foldable, easily transportable for working travels, this organ totally innovative is likely to become the model to all perfumers.

http://www.profumo.it/aromaterapia/Corsi/youtube_perfume/perfumer_organ.asp

King’s folly

I received a request of help for a TV shows: what about cooking eggs with Ambergris?
An English cook (are the 2 words compatible for a French man) “recreates” dishes from the past and the show “culminates in a lavish feast”.
I do not like at all the “lavish feast” part. I just returned from Africa and hold god given food in too high a respect for appreciating it being made a show of waste for the rich.
I have seen in all my years of travelling before becoming a perfumer that humanity is divided in 2 parts: one part has problems for eating, and the other part has problems for losing weight.
I am convinced that if someone is hungry on earth it is only because someone else is eating his dinner.

Nevertheless, a true perfumer is always a cook as well, and this English trip tickled my French man’s curiosity. I said to my daughters: today I cook something special, the egg with ambergris.

I cooked my egg putting it in a pan with a little bit of olive oil, then I grated some ambergris on it and I covered the pan and let cook at very low fire until appears a white layer over the egg (snowy fried eggs).

We ate the egg and it was as good as usual, being happy a egg from my own happy hens, but the ambergris flavour got completely lost in that dish, and we all were fully deluded.
If that was the dish of a king, it must have been an English king (this is only the opinion of a French man though).
I was so incredulous that I started all over again, with more ambergris and taking care of cooking the ambergris even less.

Well, it is not because I am French, but this English dish is a complete flop.
A good news anyway is that Ambergris eggs seem to loosen your bowels. Was the king constipated?

Still I am opened to another English culinary experience, if someone cares to counsel me something really special.

Male perfume, tips for conquest

Men usually prefer woody or spicy or “grassy” accords, while flowery ones are considered to be feminine scents.

My experience with perfume customers has shown me that there is a clear division between men and women scents, but many women prefer men’s perfumes while only a minority of men prefer flowery soft and romantic scents to wear.

The fact that these are sold as women perfumes stops them completely from buying and wearing them.

You would have to travel to middle east to find men wearing Jasmine and Rose perfumes without shame.

I have observed for long the people and their perfume tastes and I remarked that the more macho a man the more woody the perfume he will chose.

Flowery and sweet scents are chosen by men who have a poetical sensibility, who are kind and patient, who cultivate humility and kindness towards others as a virtue.

It is generally believed that women will prefer a macho, but this is not true, many women will value highly the flowery man because he is likely to be a sweet partner in life, trustworthy, loving and faithful.

Macho man with a super ego may seduce because he is likely to conquer his share of the world, but a woman in search of true love will not chose him because she instinctively knows that his energy and ego will push him to feminine conquests as well.

A man may use perfume as a strategy exactly as he uses his dress.

A macho man wearing flowery or a poetic man wearing woody would be irresistible in the eye of many women because their personality would be completed, and they would hold the advantages of both types.

Comments

Rashunda:

Is it also correct for me to assume that one can make a perfume sort of to “balance” a personality? For example, if someone has a very passive personality, a perfume can be designed to help exude more confidence.

AbdesSalaam Attar

You could do a lot of things with perfumes, including making people feel as you wish, but in my philosophy of making perfumes, people are at the core of the process, not as accessories, which means that personalized perfumes are not made by the perfumer but by the person who wants it. He will decide what he likes and the perfume will have the properties that this person realy needs.
As a psychologist or as a medic I could err totally judging that a person needs to be balanced in a way or in an other. The nose never errs. He is your best doctor. He knows what no one else knows about medicine and psychology.
A perfume is done with the nose, a perfume for an other person is done with his nose.
Your knowledge of psychology or medecine will help you to make perfumes, if you also know Aromatherapy and olfactory psychology, but by the end, all what is necessary to make a perfume is the nose.
Personalities are what they are, they cannot be changed. The perfume can certainly help a person overcome a weakness such as lack of confidence as you mention, but only if it has been done with the nose of the person.
AbdesSalaam Attar

Ambergris

It is not easy to buy Ambergris even for one who knows it well.

The business is in the hand of very few people who are ready to throw millions of dollars for really big lots. They control the prices and are very fast in travelling to the finding places with the cash payment.
It is a matter of “grab and run”, that often occurs in luxury hotel rooms.
It is certainly dangerous to go around with such big amounts of money, and the life of an Ambergris hunter is surely adventurous and romantic.

Since years I am trying to sneak into the business without much success.
The others are better equipped and the only resource I have is to offer more money than them.
Therefore one should know the price that they offer, and on the other hand it is difficult to buy it too expensive because it becomes then difficult to sell it and you risk being left without money but with plenty of ambergris.
The customers are always the same, Guerlain and some of the biggest perfume houses. The arabs, the Asians and the Japanese are also very big consumers.

I have received an offer for a lot of 1,5 kg (in photo) and this is a reasonable size for me.
The investment is at my dimension and the lot is a single lump. This is important to me because I have observed that the maturation, that lasts for years, occurs in a better way in big lumps than in small pieces.
The problem is that this lot is in Australia and that it is the only country from which the export is prohibited.

I know that the French hunters manage to export it. I called the seller in Australia and he also knows that. Probably he had already contacted the French concurrent and his offer was too low. Then he called me for a better one.
“I don’t know how they do” I confessed him
“Probably they do it quietly” he answered
“Well” I said, “let us do the same, like Crocodile Dundee, after all we are in Australia”.
In the meantime I put the photo online. If someone is interested in the Ambergris business let him call me.

Selling perfumes


Amman, 1990

We were looking at the yachts and sailing boats from the high, it was near Palermo in Sicily.

My small daughter told me: “Papi, I want to buy a boat when I am grown up”.

“It is easy” I replied, “you just have to sell perfumes to the people, and do you know why it is easy? because everybody likes good smells”.

Baba Farid, one of the greatest saints of the subcontinent, ended up his life in a small village of Punjab, Pakpattan.

That was his mission. Other saints were in Dehli or Lahore, two great cities of all times, seats of power and civilization, they had thousands of disciples, and they advised kings and viziers.

He taught, fed and cured backward village folks all his life.

I spent a year or so in Pakpattan, stuck there by destiny as had been Baba Farid, and I had a lot of time for reading and studying the life of the saint.

His were simple teachings for simple people. I remember very well one of his sayings: “do not try to sell to the people what they do not want to buy”.

Our marketing geniuses have turned the problem around for their clients: “make people desire what they don’t want to buy”, but for us perfumers the point to realize is that everybody wants to smell good and to live in a nice smelling environment.

Our job of selling perfumes is much easier than the one of other producers.
There is an Arab proverb that goes like that: “A pious person is like the Perfumer, if he does not give you some perfume, at least you will enjoy his nice fumes.

The corrupt person is like the blacksmith: if he does nut burn you with his fire, at least he will suffocate you with his smoke”.