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Perfumer’s pervertion

I just received from South Africa a new essence that is not yet available on the international market of raw material for perfumers.
The bottle had leaked a bit and the wrapping of the parcel was perfumed.
The power of this essential oil is incredible.
Since 2 days my work place and the next room have been invaded by the fragrance of this strange mix of bubble gum and cat’s pee, although I have cleaned everything and thrown out far away the empty package and the inside wrapping.
Do you have present when you enter a room and say: I can smell a mouse?
This is the smell of the pheromone that these animals leave with their urine. It is very parent to the smell of cats urine as well.
The only essence of the perfumer’s palette which has a similar note is a good and real Black current absolute, although much more fruity in body.

This olfactory pollution of my working place has had the good result of allowing me to understand better the smell because from the bottle it is so powerful that it stuns the nose.
It has a definite undertone of Clary sage, which is as well a hormonal essence whose structure is similar to a pheromone.
It also has a slight tobacco note and understanding all this gave me an idea about how to start working (playing) with it.
Although I know that this will not please my wife and co workers who always criticize my “perverted attraction” for all animal scents and for some of the “strange stinking” botanical raw materials.
Every profession has its pervertion, said yesterday my right hand man, yours is about these stinking stuff.
My wife said also: “Do you really like them or is it just for joking? Your eyes start shining and you look always so exited when you discover one of these stinking things”.
Who will understand the nose of a perfumer? It smells much more than odors. A perfumer in some ways thinks with his nose, he can conceptulize smells and build with them coherent constructions that appeal to the emotional memories and imagination of others.
It is just a question of training and education, not a great deal in fact, but it is mysterious and with the aura of sacredness to all but him (or her, of course, seing that most of the new generation are women).
Well, this Betuline essence is really something, I could smell that not only with my perfumer training but also with my Aromatherapist nose.
It is difficult to believe it for most people, but a person used to cure with essential oils is able to understand many properties of an essence he never knew before just by smelling it.
Before asking to the producer information about the traditional use of the plant in South Africa I googled it and, not at all surprisingly I discovered that Betuline cats pee smell is used traditionally to increase urine production, to cure kidneys and bladder, and to heal the urinary track.
I shall now research about the hormonal effect, probably for women problems.
Next news about Betuline when I start making a perfume out of it.

Tridimentional Perfumery

My search for the real muskdeer scent has carried me in some of the farthest spots of the Hindu Kush but at last I found it from its fount.

I fully understand the need of all perfumers for a sustainable musk scent substitute, but the point maybe is rather about the use of an animal note in our botanical scents, such as Ambergris, Civet, Hyraceum or Castoreum, in order to obtain a perfume with a third dimension.

Like the small machines resembling binoculars through which you look in order to watch 3 dimensional photographs, there are only 2 images in the machine but the vision is truely tridimentional.

All these animal aromatic substances are pheromone molecules and they appeal to our nervous system and to our emotions as no vegetable really does. They do not need to be perceptible in a perfume, it is enough for them to be there. I remember a customer who recognized any tiny amount of rose present in any of my compositions because he hated rose due to some old traumatic memory. In the same way I observed that people recognize straight away in my compositions the ingredients that they particularly like or dislike even if I myself do not even smell it due to the tiny concentration of it.
I understood that our nose is really working like a gas chromatography machine unconsciously and that what we can perceive of a perfume may be very different from person to person. The search for third dimension of perfumery goes through animal scents but the use of them is a hard path, prohibitive high prices, difficulty to obtain and ethical dilemmas. So the first step was hair goat tincturing as a sustainable substitute for musk deer but more can be done.
I myself shall tincture a mutton this week, because yesterday I smelled a very nice powerful one at my neighbours. With a liter or two of alcohol and a big pan I shall rinse it to get his perfume. Mutton smell is somehow sweeter than the one of Billy goat, and certainly more acceptable to most people than civet. Knowing how civet can blend into marvellous perfumes, there is no reason that horse or mutton does not. Just imagine the amount of mutton absolute could be produced as a by-product of wool washing in Australia for instance.