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GOAT HAIR TINCTURE AND HUMAN PHEROMONES

NATURAL PHEROMONES IN PERFUMERY

ANIMAL FRAGRANCES

Time ago I received two samples of goat musk from Gayla  of the Always Enough Ranch in California where she breeds goats. She wrote:
“ I know they have musk glands behind their horns, but I believe they exude musk through their urine too. They pee on their faces to perfume themselves. And on their legs, and on their bellies….And every inch gets somehow perfumed.”
She collected the perfume very simply rubbing the goat in the two places mentioned with cotton wool.
After tincturing I can see a huge difference between the two. The substance collected from the head has the typical smell of goat and goat cheese while the hind leg substance is very much more like muskdeer, a very sexual smell almost without the goat smell.
In fact most mammals spread their pheromones through the urine because very few possess a specific organ to produce them like beaver or civet. The heavy non flying  and often non smelling primary pheromone molecules are digested and tailored by the bacteria of the skin and take their smell and assume their pheromonal function only after this process (it consists in separating the acids from the proteins to which they are bound at the time of their production. Like human armpits sweat. In this process the hair is very important and this is the real reason for their presence in these parts of our body. They increase the living space of the micro-organisms and the evaporating surface of the smell. Shaving armpits hairs drastically reduce the efficiency of the “armpit organ.
The use of perfumes is common to all civilisations. It has the aim to eliminate body smells (because they are bactericide) but also to “spiritualize” the proper individual animal scent which remains anyway. An other instrument that is common to many civilisations is the shavig of armpit and pubic hair, practice to our days in the whole of Africa, in all the muslim world and in the Hebrew culture.
To come to a conclusion it seems strange that on one side the civilized person washes away his animal scent but prefers perfumes that contains Castoreum or Civet as an endeavours to appropriate an animal scent. I still conclude that it is a question of vital force that all natural aromatic molecules contain (in Arabic the essence is called Ruh; spirit of the plant). So that in the search of the vital energy present in the perfume, we prefer those who contain botanical and animal spirits.
Abdes salaam Attar
Kodo, La Via del Profumo

Tridimentional Perfumery

My search for the real muskdeer scent has carried me in some of the farthest spots of the Hindu Kush but at last I found it from its fount.

I fully understand the need of all perfumers for a sustainable musk scent substitute, but the point maybe is rather about the use of an animal note in our botanical scents, such as Ambergris, Civet, Hyraceum or Castoreum, in order to obtain a perfume with a third dimension.

Like the small machines resembling binoculars through which you look in order to watch 3 dimensional photographs, there are only 2 images in the machine but the vision is truely tridimentional.

All these animal aromatic substances are pheromone molecules and they appeal to our nervous system and to our emotions as no vegetable really does. They do not need to be perceptible in a perfume, it is enough for them to be there. I remember a customer who recognized any tiny amount of rose present in any of my compositions because he hated rose due to some old traumatic memory. In the same way I observed that people recognize straight away in my compositions the ingredients that they particularly like or dislike even if I myself do not even smell it due to the tiny concentration of it.
I understood that our nose is really working like a gas chromatography machine unconsciously and that what we can perceive of a perfume may be very different from person to person. The search for third dimension of perfumery goes through animal scents but the use of them is a hard path, prohibitive high prices, difficulty to obtain and ethical dilemmas. So the first step was hair goat tincturing as a sustainable substitute for musk deer but more can be done.
I myself shall tincture a mutton this week, because yesterday I smelled a very nice powerful one at my neighbours. With a liter or two of alcohol and a big pan I shall rinse it to get his perfume. Mutton smell is somehow sweeter than the one of Billy goat, and certainly more acceptable to most people than civet. Knowing how civet can blend into marvellous perfumes, there is no reason that horse or mutton does not. Just imagine the amount of mutton absolute could be produced as a by-product of wool washing in Australia for instance.