Interview on Sniffapalooza about natural perfumery

Sailing towards new horizons

For the English interview just click  HERE

The interview features Natural perfumery aims, ethics and philosophy.

AbdesSalaam Attar interview with Raphaella Barkley

Human sweat and perfumery pheromones

Civet easily becomes a pet, but keep your nose away from its behind part

Whoever smelled pure Civet for the first time has wondered how such an odor could enter into a perfume bottle. My first impression was the smell of rotten tooth.
It takes some training to be able to understand Civet perfume, one has to overcome the social olfactory programming that make us classify straight away this odor among stenches.

An infinitesimal dose of Civet can double the longevity of short lived perfumes, and although being in amount so little as to be subliminal, it also add to fragrances a different olfactory dimension, the animal one, and our instinct recognizes it immediately.
This is the reason why the public often prefers the scents that contains civet or other perfumery pheromones over scents who do not.

Human sweat can be a very fascinating smell to a perfumer. A professional  perfumer must approach smells with an unprejudiced nose, or must at least be able to recognize the origin of his liking or not certain smells, and thus be able to evaluate them with an objectivity not given to the general public.
Moreover, a perfumer is always very attentive to the reactions of people to smells, because his aim is to build scents that people will like (and buy).

Human sweat tells what a person eats, his condition of health and also about his sexual life. Most of these things we perceive with our animal instinct and they are not intellectualized, but our behavior towards a person is very much conditioned by these information.

I once red the post of a pervert perfumer specialized into making aphrodisiac perfumes, where he was contemplating using his own sweat in a fragrance. I hope for his customers that he did not do it in one of the fragrances that he sells, but I invite every one of you to do this revolutionary perfume experience  for himself in a very simple way.

My life with natural fragrances as a traveller in some of the hottest uncivilized spots of the earth, without hotels or much water had forced me to resolve the armpit smell problem with what I had ready at hand, that is my natural essences and perfumes.
The result is astonishing, much better than any deodorant and than any perfume as well.

Armpit smell disappears as such and blends into the perfume which becomes much more rich and persistent. The essential oils that compose the perfume have an antiseptic effect that cuts drastically the bacterial fauna which is responsible for the typical armpit scent (see inquest into human pheromones).

You can see that people react very positively to such a perfume, specially the opposite sex.

You have both a deodorant product and a personal afrodisiac perfume.

This is probably the best sustainable alternative to animal scents in perfumery, and a much nicer way to experiment a “human pheromone perfume” that the one thought by the pervert perfumer.

Rush to any natural perfumer and try for yourself  your owwn customised human pheromone fragrance. I hope that you will write me your feed backs, they are most welcome.


By Valeria

I’m an aromatherapist and a natural perfume maker. I feel unconfortable to say that I am a perfumist ’cause I’m talking to real ones. I got this experience since last year when I had a kind of inflamation in my left armpit. In view of this fact, I could not use an antibacterial powder that I use since I was a teenager. I went to the doctor who said that I shouldn’t use anything in there. Lucky me! I had the tools “staring at me” and of course, time had come to make it work on my behalf. I made a perfume with tea tree (’cause of its antibacterial function) + lavender + petit grain with a litlle of alcool and clean water and started to use it under my armpit as deodorant. It was awesome! From that moment on I started selling much more perfume than I used to in view of the fact that people reacted in an unexpected way. The same people who liked my perfumes started to love it! And people who didn’t care about them (at least they seemed to) started to pay attention on them, commenting and better than that, buying! Another thing that I had noticed and that you said confirms my theory that perfumes are much better before you take a shower than after this. The scent is stronger and more permanent. Loved to “hear” it. Science and intuition go together! Thanks for it!
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aggettivo: olfattivo


It is not easy to buy Ambergris even for one who knows it well.

The business is in the hand of very few people who are ready to throw millions of dollars for really big lots. They control the prices and are very fast in travelling to the finding places with the cash payment.
It is a matter of “grab and run”, that often occurs in luxury hotel rooms.
It is certainly dangerous to go around with such big amounts of money, and the life of an Ambergris hunter is surely adventurous and romantic.

Since years I am trying to sneak into the business without much success.
The others are better equipped and the only resource I have is to offer more money than them.
Therefore one should know the price that they offer, and on the other hand it is difficult to buy it too expensive because it becomes then difficult to sell it and you risk being left without money but with plenty of ambergris.
The customers are always the same, Guerlain and some of the biggest perfume houses. The arabs, the Asians and the Japanese are also very big consumers.

I have received an offer for a lot of 1,5 kg (in photo) and this is a reasonable size for me.
The investment is at my dimension and the lot is a single lump. This is important to me because I have observed that the maturation, that lasts for years, occurs in a better way in big lumps than in small pieces.
The problem is that this lot is in Australia and that it is the only country from which the export is prohibited.

I know that the French hunters manage to export it. I called the seller in Australia and he also knows that. Probably he had already contacted the French concurrent and his offer was too low. Then he called me for a better one.
“I don’t know how they do” I confessed him
“Probably they do it quietly” he answered
“Well” I said, “let us do the same, like Crocodile Dundee, after all we are in Australia”.
In the meantime I put the photo online. If someone is interested in the Ambergris business let him call me.


A perfumer who looks for inspiration inside himself is not only necessarily very limited, but he also risks to end up into an ego trip completely incompatible with true inspiration, as by definition inspiration transcends the person who receives it.
I heard Guerlain in an interview saying: “I never “created” a perfume that was not for a woman who really existed and preferably who had a significant importance in my life”.

A real perfume is made for real persons.
The true fount of inspiration for the perfumer is the others, and it is endless.
A perfumer should consider himself as being at the service of others and not as a mythical being worth of admiration.
The worst that could happen to him is to close himself in a world of his own, loosing connection with the reality of the others.
A sound dose of humility is indispensable to be able to progress on the way of learning.

Making perfumes for single persons is practically the only road available to an independent Natural perfumer who wants to learn the art and start the profession. This should remain a constant exercise in the years in order not to loose contact with the normal persons (who are quite different with big customers of fashion and business) and above all in order to continue to receive input of new ideas.

I once told to a musician friend: “you will not be an artist until you make music that cures the people”.
The same is valid for the perfumer; his fragrances should infuse positive emotions, vital energy and restore psychological equilibrium.
This is the new frontier of modern Perfumery, but it is also a return to the antique tradition of the Healer Perfumer. It is called Perfume-Therapy.

Since years I have a form online through which anyone can choose the base notes dearest to his heart and ask me to compose his perfume.
I receive requests for accords that I would have never imagined. These accords are the expression of the deepest desires of the soul. This confrontation with the intimate taste of real persons is a continuous challenge to my professionalism and a constant fount of learning for me.

I would advice all Natural Perfumers to do something of the kind. If you are afraid to be overcome by the requests just keep the price a bit high.
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sostantivo: realt