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The interview features Natural perfumery aims, ethics and philosophy.

Below the Japanese version of the interview.

Civet easily becomes a pet, but stay away from his bottom

Whoever smelled pure Civet for the first time has wondered how such an odor could enter into a perfume bottle. My first impression was the smell of rotten tooth.

It takes some training to be able to understand Civet perfume, one has to overcome the social olfactory programming that make us classify straight away this odor among stenches.

An infinitesimal dose of Civet can double the longevity of short lived fragrances, and although being in amount so little as to be subliminal, it also confers to fragrances a new olfactory dimension, the animal one, and our instinct recognizes it immediately.

This is the explanation why the public often prefers the scent that contains civet or other perfumery pheromones over scents who do not have them.

Human sweat can be a very interesting smell to a perfumer. The perfumer smells with an unprejudiced nose, or at least he can recognize the origin of his liking or not certain smells.

Moreover, a perfumer is always attentive to the reactions of people to smells, because his aim is to build scents that people will like (and buy).

Human sweat tells you what a person eats, his state of health and also much about his sexual life. Most of these things we perceive with our animal instinct and it is not intellectualized, but our behavior towards this person is conditioned by these information.

Making perfumes with human sweat has often been contemplated by pervert perfumers. If Civet and Castoreum have such an effect on our instinct, what could human pheromones do for a perfume?

I shall here share my experience in regard of human sweat and natural perfumes.

I always have my natural perfumes and the essential oils at hand, being a perfumer and I have discovered an interesting phenomenon.

If you happen to be in the need of washing your armpits and you are too much in a hurry to do it, you should try to spray a natural perfume. The result is unexpectedly good.

Armpit smell disappears and blends into the perfume which becomes richer and more persistent. The essential oils that compose the perfume have an antiseptic effect and cut drastically the bacterial fauna which is responsible for the smell (see inquest into human pheromones).

Poeple react very positively to such a perfume.

You have both a deodorant and a perfuming effect.

I seems that we have found the best sustainable alternative to animal scents in perfumery.

You can try: Hindu Kush, Tambour and sea wood for a perfect animalic blend with your human sweat.

Write me your feed back, they are most welcome.

Comments:

By Valeria

The business is in the hand of very few people who are ready to throw millions of dollars for really big lots. They control the prices and are very fast in travelling to the finding places with the cash payment.
It is a matter of “grab and run”, that often occurs in luxury hotel rooms.
It is certainly dangerous to go around with such big amounts of money, and the life of an Ambergris hunter is surely adventurous and romantic.

Since years I am trying to sneak into the business without much success.
The others are better equipped and the only resource I have is to offer more money than them.
Therefore one should know the price that they offer, and on the other hand it is difficult to buy it too expensive because it becomes then difficult to sell it and you risk being left without money but with plenty of ambergris.
The customers are always the same, Guerlain and some of the biggest perfume houses. The arabs, the Asians and the Japanese are also very big consumers.

I have received an offer for a lot of 1,5 kg (in photo) and this is a reasonable size for me.
The investment is at my dimension and the lot is a single lump. This is important to me because I have observed that the maturation, that lasts for years, occurs in a better way in big lumps than in small pieces.
The problem is that this lot is in Australia and that it is the only country from which the export is prohibited.

I know that the French hunters manage to export it. I called the seller in Australia and he also knows that. Probably he had already contacted the French concurrent and his offer was too low. Then he called me for a better one.
“I don’t know how they do” I confessed him
“Probably they do it quietly” he answered
“Well” I said, “let us do the same, like Crocodile Dundee, after all we are in Australia”.
In the meantime I put the photo online. If someone is interested in the Ambergris business let him call me.